On past the Worms Head Hotel, which is closed following an extensive fire and being rebuilt, to descend steeply into Rhossili Bay where the tide was ebbing. This picturesque three-mile stretch of sand holds the remnants of the Helvetia, wrecked on November 1, 1887, and with only one piece of its shattered timbers visible at times of low tide.
After a whole month of stormy weather, the Norwegian ship with its cargo of 500 tons of timber from New Brunswick was sailing to the port of Swansea, but the bad weather prevented the pilot cutter leaving Swansea Bay to guide it into the harbour, forcing the Helvetia to sail towards Rhossili Bay and anchor to hopefully ride out the storm. As the weather worsened, the anchor lifted and the vessel hit the rocks, but the crew remained on board, and despite efforts by the Coastguards they were finally forced to leave the sinking ship as she broke apart. The cargo was washed ashore and later auctioned, but there is no doubt some of it ended up in local hands.
With clouds parting overhead, the sun put in a most welcome appearance and heading westwards, they paused further on for morning refreshments before continuing towards the Spaniard Rocks, allegedly named after Spanish gold was recovered perhaps from an ancient shipwreck. Climbing up from the beach onto the headland, the receding tide offered a safe passage across to Burry Holms just off the mainland to the south if required. At its western end, a fort stood and during the Middle Ages, a monastery was built on the landward side, the remains of which are still visible.
Sandy pathways brought them through Broughton Burrows with lovely views over Broughton Bay, and reaching Broughton caravan site, they turned inland and up through fields and a rough path to the road, which led them below Llanmadoc Hill that rises to 186m.
Narrow paths on the slopes of the hill brought them to a field for the descent into Llangennith village and the Kings Head Inn for their lunch break. This pub welcomes both walkers and dog owners, and after some enjoyable hearty meals and liquid refreshment, it was time to resume their walk.
Exiting past the 12th century Church of St Cenydd with its delightful carved gate, a short piece of road walking led to a rough and very wet stony track, and carefully to the lower slopes of Rhossili Down. Heading uphill with full tummies is not easy and upon reaching the top and into a breeze, the ridgeway path led them eastwards with misty views across Rhossili Bay below and towards the Worms Head. Its huge outline named the ‘Wurm’ by the Viking invaders which means ‘Dragon’ and the pieces of land lie like a serpent with its head raised to fight the incoming tides.
Reaching the trig point on Rhossili Down situated at 183m, time for a quick pause to enjoy the misty views before the descent to Rhossili Village. On past the pretty 14th century Church of St Mary the Virgin, learning that the original church stood at the foot of Rhossili Down on the Warren and dated back to the sixth century, when it was dedicated to St Sulien or Sili. But after huge storms lashed the coast in the 13th century, both the church and its village was lost forever. The doorway of the present church dates to the 12th century and was moved from the earlier church, and inside is a memorial to Edgar Evans, born 1876 who accompanied Captain Scott on the Terra Nova on his fateful voyage to conquer the South Pole. It bears the inscription ‘To seek, to strive, to find and not to yield’ and tramping back to their start point time for farewells before the homeward journey after a great day’s walking.
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