It’s become one of the most heated debates on social media – and just in time for summer.
Chemical sunscreens, anti-UV ray creams and sprays that can be rubbed into the skin, have long been a mainstay on British pharmacy shelves.
These popular products contain ingredients that trigger a chemical reaction to sunlight, preventing skin damage and lowering the risk of cancer.
And they have long been considered safe and effective.
However, in recent years there has been a major sea-change in opinion online about chemical sunscreens.
Increasingly, these products have been labelled as ‘toxic’ by health influencers who claim the ingredients can trigger skin problems, acne and even enter the bloodstream, potentially disrupting healthy bodily functions.
Instead, these influencers are now telling their followers to use a different form, called mineral sunscreen. These are products that contain metals, which reflect sunlight away and, crucially, do not enter the bloodstream.
Mineral sunscreens are not new, but they were previously less popular than chemical versions because they do not rub into the skin – instead, creating a white paste on the skin.
Chemical sunscreens have been labelled as ‘toxic’ by health influencers who claim the ingredients can trigger skin problems, acne and even enter the bloodstream, potentially disrupting healthy bodily functions
Mineral sunscreens have long been the product of choice for cricketers – who often coat their noses and lips in the cream.
But research shows that mineral sunscreens are becoming more popular amongst young people who are looking for a more natural and healthy alternative to chemical products.
Videos about mineral sunscreen have been viewed by more than 146 million people on TikTok.
Many social media influencers talk about making the switch from chemical to mineral sunscreens as ‘going non-toxic’.
And while some experts believe that the risks of chemical sunscreen are overstated, a growing number of top skin doctors also believe that mineral sunscreens are the safer and more effective choice.
‘It’s true that mineral sunscreens are better for you,’ says Dr Christopher Rowland Payne, consultant dermatologist at The London Clinic.
‘People have just been put off by the fact that it turns your whole face white. But it is the more effective option.’
So, what’s the truth about mineral sunscreen?
Mineral sunscreens have long been the product of choice for cricketers – who often coat their noses and lips in the cream
The need for better sun protection in Britain is clear.
The nation is in the grips of a skin cancer crisis, with cases reaching record levels.
Melanoma – the deadliest form – is at an all-time high, with nearly 21,000 Britons diagnosed every year. And it’s a trend showing no sign of slowing.
With scorching summers set to become the norm in the UK, cancer specialists warn cases could climb to 26,500 a year by 2040. Meanwhile, there are around 200,000 non‑melanoma skin cancers treated each year – with numbers having more than doubled since the 1990s.
Studies show that even a handful of sunburns markedly increases the risk of skin cancer.
One US study found that five bad burns as a child increases the risk of melanoma as an adult by around 80 per cent.
Meanwhile five or more bad burns between ages 15 and 20 boosts the chances of non-melanoma skin cancer by nearly 70 per cent.
Chemical sunscreens are designed to protect against this risk. They contain ingredients such as oxybenzone, avobenzone and octocrylene, which trigger a chemical reaction to sunlight, protecting the skin against UV rays.
The products, which first became available in the 1960s and 1970s, can also be rubbed into the skin, meaning they do not leave visible smears.
Chemical sunscreens, which first became available in the 1960s and 1970s, can also be rubbed into the skin, meaning they do not leave visible smears
‘It’s really remarkable technology,’ says Dr Rowland Payne.
However, in recent years, there have been growing concerns over chemical sunscreens.
Many patients online claim that chemical sunscreens have left them with acne and inflamed skin, also known as dermatitis.
Research appears to back this up. One 2024 Indian study found that many patients experience allergic reactions to chemical sunscreens.
There are also worries that these chemicals can make their way into the body.
In 2020, a major US study found sunscreen chemicals in the blood of patients who regularly applied the products. These chemicals were still detectable seven days after the patients had stopped using the sunscreens.
Meanwhile, a 2008 Swiss study found oxybenzone and four other sunscreen chemicals in 85 per cent of breast milk samples.
Mineral sunscreens create what is known as a ‘white cast’ – a noticeable smear on the skin
Many social media influencers talk about making the switch from chemical to mineral sunscreens as ‘going non-toxic’
That same year, US health officials at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention identified sunscreen chemicals in 97 per cent of urine samples.
Experts say the exact risks of these chemicals are still unclear. At present, parents are advised not to use chemical sunscreens on babies – but no such advice exists for adults.
‘Babies are small enough for these chemicals to have an impact on their bodies,’ says Dr Rowland Payne. ‘There aren’t the same worries for adults though.’
Regardless, experts say it is these worries that have driven the popularity of mineral sunscreens, which are considered a safer and more effective alternative.
Mineral sunscreens typically contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These are metals proven to reflect UV rays.
‘These metals do not break down and enter the body like chemical sunscreens,’ says Dr Rowland Payne.
Experts say the downside to mineral sunscreens is that, since they work as a barrier between the skin and the sun, patients need to wear a thick layer, which creates what is known as a ‘white cast’ – a noticeable smear on the skin.
But they also argue that mineral sunscreens are fast-acting – as they provide immediate relief, while chemical sunscreens take roughly 20 minutes to provide protection.
Dr Christopher Rowland Payne said: ”It’s not surprising that young people who are looking for a more natural and healthy option are turning to mineral sunscreen’
‘Chemical sunscreen is the more accessible option, but I would personally choose a mineral sunscreen,’ says Dr Rowland Payne.
‘It’s not surprising that young people who are looking for a more natural and healthy option are turning to mineral sunscreen.’
Experts advise that people considering buying a mineral sunscreen should make sure it contains zinc oxide, as this provides better protection than titanium dioxide – though a product that contains both is even better.
They also warn that many products that claim to be mineral sunscreens are in fact ‘hybrids’, meaning they also contain chemicals such as oxybenzone and avobenzone.
Dr Rowland Payne stresses that both mineral and chemical sunscreens need to be reapplied roughly every hour and a half – or sooner if people are swimming.
He also adds that there is an even more reliable way to lower the risk of skin damage and cancer: shade.
‘Wearing long sleeves, a hat, and staying out of direct sunlight during the day are far more effective ways of protecting your skin,’ he says.
