With summer upon us it’s time to stock up on sunscreen once more.
Overwhelming evidence shows that high sun protection factor (SPF) is the single best defence against skin cancers and premature skin ageing – yet half of all Britons report getting sunburnt at least once a year, according to the latest figures from UK skin cancer charity Melanoma Focus.
And, despite our increasingly warm weather, a third of us don’t use sunscreen at all in the UK during the summer months, the survey found.
Meanwhile, rates of melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, have increased by a third in the past decade – and are now at an all-time high, according to a new Cancer Research UK report. Non-melanoma skin cancers such as basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma are also rising sharply – up by more than 40 per cent.
But with the vast array of sunscreens that are available, which should you choose?
‘A high-quality sunscreen should offer broad-spectrum protection, shielding against both UVA and UVB sun rays,’ says Dr Susan Mayou, a consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic in London. ‘UVB is responsible for sunburn while UVA penetrates deeper, driving premature ageing – both contribute to skin cancer risk.’
She advises choosing a product with a four or five-star UVA rating and an SPF (a measure of UVB protection) of 50.
She adds: ‘Don’t skimp on the application – adults should use around a teaspoon for the face and neck and a shot glass full for the torso – and another for the limbs. Sunscreen should be applied 15-20 minutes before sun exposure and reapplied every two hours, or after swimming.’
We asked Dr Mayou to assess some of the newest sunscreens on the market; we then rated them.
Very high protection
Heliocare 360° MD AK Fluid SPF100, £32.99 for 50ml, hollandandbarrett.com
CLAIM: ‘Very high-level protection to help prevent actinic keratosis and non-melanoma skin cancer. Contains Fernblock for powerful antioxidant skin protection.’
EXPERT VERDICT: SPF100 means in controlled tests, people spend 100 times longer in the sun without burning after application than they would with no sun protection.
This promises to prevent actinic keratosis – pink, scaly sun-damaged patches that can develop into squamous cell carcinoma (the second most common skin cancer) if left untreated. But no topical sunscreen can fully prevent it; consistent protection – including covering up in direct sunlight – is key.
There’s some evidence Fernblock (extracted from a tropical fern) can be an effective antioxidant, neutralising free radicals (molecules generated by UV damage that break down collagen and cause skin inflammation) but it isn’t comparable to sunscreen.
This could be useful for high-risk individuals, such as those with a history of skin cancer, pre-cancerous growths or if sensitive to sunlight – but it’s expensive and SPF50 is adequate. 7/10
Anti-ageing
African Extracts Advantage Day Cream SPF15, £14.50 for 50ml, africanextracts.co.uk
CLAIM: ‘Rich in antioxidant rooibos extract for anti-ageing benefits. SPF15 for essential protection against harmful UV rays.’
EXPERT VERDICT: Rooibos, a South African plant, may protect against oxidative stress (damage to skin cells) caused by exposure to UV sunlight. A study last month by the University of Malaga in Spain found it could enhance traditional sunscreens’ ‘absorption capacity, increasing their antioxidant levels, and providing longer-lasting protection against the risks of radiation’.
But there’s limited evidence it significantly enhances protection in a finished product. More importantly, at just SPF15 this is lower than the NHS recommended minimum of SPF30. This is more a nice daily moisturiser than an adequate UV protector. 3/10
Long-lasting formula
Riemann P20 Original Sun Protection Spray SPF50, £19.99 for 100ml, boots.com
CLAIM: ‘Sweat and water-resistant with triple protection technology that provides up to ten hours of protection. Allergy certified.’
EXPERT VERDICT: This is a decent, durable formula which could be particularly useful for children. But the idea of a once-daily sunscreen (or lasting ten hours) should be approached with caution.
Even very water-resistant formulas can degrade with sweating, swimming or towel drying. Relying on a product claiming to be long-lasting may lead to gaps in protection and a false sense of security. Allergy certified means it avoids known allergens – but may still cause a reaction in sensitive individuals. 7/10
Tan-boosting
Ultrasun Body Tan Activator SPF50, £25.60 for 200ml, boots.com
CLAIM: ‘Encourages a faster, deeper natural tan with new addition Neuroglow to boost melanin production.’
EXPERT VERDICT: A tan is a sign of skin damage and the only safe tan is a fake tan. This product actively encourages tanning, which for me is at odds with skin health. In any case, the SPF50 will actually reduce UV penetration, so tanning will be slower and less intense. Neuroglow – an extract of the Japanese indigo plant – may have laboratory evidence suggesting it influences melanin production, but clinical evidence is limited. 3/10
Acne-prone skin
SVR Sebiaclear Cream SPF50+ for acne prone skin, £20.50 for 40ml, uk.svr.com
CLAIM: ‘A formula combining acne-targeting skincare with sun protection. Niacinamide and salicylic acid to reduce blemishes.’
EXPERT VERDICT: Many people with acne avoid sunscreen due to concerns about clogged pores.
This is non-comedogenic (meaning it doesn’t block pores) and lightweight which can minimise this risk. Also some acne treatments – such as benzoyl peroxide and retinoids – make the skin more sun-sensitive, so daily sun protection is essential.
There’s good evidence niacinamide can reduce skin inflammation, regulate oil and improve skin barrier function to reduce dryness and sensitivity. Salicylic acid is also shown to unclog pores and reduce breakouts. 9/10
Insect protection
Incognito Mineral Sunblock and Insect Repellent SPF30, £27.99 for 100ml, lessmosquito.com
CLAIM: ‘Clinically proven to give 100 per cent protection against mosquito bites with PMD and mineral SPF30 sun protection.’
EXPERT VERDICT: This is a mineral sunscreen, meaning it contains zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which reflect the sun’s UV rays away – rather than absorbing them, as chemical sunscreens do.
Those with sensitive skin may prefer this, but they can leave a white cast on skin.
PMD (derived from the lemon eucalyptus tree) is one of the more effective plant-based insect repellents. My issue with any combined product is there’s a risk that neither function is optimised compared to using separate, dedicated products. And no repellent can guarantee ‘100 per cent protection’. 6/10
Sun-sensitive skin
Piz Buin Allergy Sun Sensitive Skin Lotion SPF30, £16.99 for 400ml, boots.com
CLAIM: ‘To protect and soothe sun- sensitive skin with Calmanelle.’
EXPERT VERDICT: Sun or photosensitivity is an exaggerated skin reaction to UV exposure, which can cause rashes, redness or irritation. It can run in families or be triggered by medications (e.g. acne treatment and antidepressants) or skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema.
The UV filter here, octocrylene, is shown to block UVA and UVB rays. Calmanelle is a branded blend of antioxidants and calming ingredients including the herb feverfew, often used to ease allergies – but there’s little independent evidence that these work better than common skin-calming ingredients such as urea or aloe vera.
Protective clothing and shade are the most effective strategies for photo-sensitivity. 6/10
Scalp protection
Soltan Clear & Cool Head & Scalp Suncare Mist SPF30, £6 for 100ml, boots.com
CLAIM: ‘Protects scalp and parting from the sun.’
EXPERT VERDICT: The scalp is a common but overlooked site for sun damage and skin cancer.
The mist format has clear advantages: it’s lightweight, non-greasy and less likely to leave residue in the hair compared to sun creams.
Application can be uneven with sprays though, so apply thoroughly. A dedicated scalp sunscreen is particularly helpful when swimming or in strong sun. 8/10
Skin pigmentation
Eucerin Pigment Control Anti Dark Spot Sun Fluid SPF50, £12.74 for 50ml, boots.com
CLAIM: ‘With thiamidol, which visibly reduces dark spots.’
EXPERT VERDICT: Skin hyperpigmentation is common – particularly in women (it’s often triggered or worsened by pregnancy, the Pill or HRT). There’s good evidence ingredients such as thiamidol can help reduce dark spots by inhibiting melanin production.
But consistent application of any well-formulated SPF50 sunscreen will also help prevent pigmentation – and avoiding too much time in the sun remains the cornerstone in reducing it. 7/10
