Sunglasses, hats and plenty of sun cream, along with copious amounts of liquid was the order of the day as they set off through the village and past the idyllic Pitcot Pool, which is filled by springs and surface water, where its village pump was no longer required after 1926 when piped water arrived in the village.
At Pool Farm, a stone stile brought them into fields where a series of gates and stiles led them southwards to pretty woodland at Pant y Slade and then downhill to pass the Glamorgan Heritage Coast Centre below Dunraven Park, where rangers care for the 14 miles of the Heritage coast eastwards to St Athan, and it is based in the former laundry of Dunraven Castle. Past the Grade II listed thatched Seamouth Cottage, which dates to the 17th century but was rebuilt in the mid 1800’s as a feature of the Dunraven Estate. It is thought it was connected with the lime burning industry that took place at Dunraven Bay, known locally as Southerndown beach, and was later used as a bathhouse, as there was a pool in its living room.
Enjoying a short morning break at Dunraven Bay and climbing steps, the grassy path brought them uphill with great views over the beach with its incoming tide, Trwyn y Witch or the ‘witches nose’ because of its shape when viewed from the side, with its ancient Iron Age fort and the site of the old Dunraven Castle situated high on the clifftop. The Norman lord William de Londres held Dunraven in 1093 and in 1128 it passed to Arnold de Botlier, who defended the castle against Welsh invaders and the Butler family, as it was later anglicised, remained there until the 15th century, when the male line died out. Jane Butler then married Walter Vaughan, so the castle passed to him until it was sold to the Wyndham family and during the 1800s, a mansion with castellations was built, hence the name Dunraven Castle. During both World Wars, it was used as a Red Cross hospital and later offered to the council, but was demolished in 1962 for safety reasons.
Their delightful coastal walk overlooking the Bristol Channel under blue skies and with a pleasant breeze led them westwards towards Ogmore-by-Sea, which until 1920 was known as Sutton, as it was named after its famous Sutton stone quarries and was part of Southerndown. The village of Ogmore grew from a few stone cottages and farms which surrounded the castle and contained an inn, watermill, almshouses, along with a few outlying houses.
Time for their lunch break before continuing their journey inland beside the Ogmore River with grand views across the estuary to Traeth yr Afon, Newton, Trecco Bay and Porthcawl and on the other side of the river the vast Merthyr Mawr Warren. Eventually, they reached the Pelican Inn, which overlooks the remains of Ogmore Castle perched beside the River Ewenny, before its confluence with the River Ogmore and guarding the stepping stones in the riverbed, which was and still is a fording point. In 1116, the Norman lord William de Londres built a ringwork and motte on this site, and then it was enhanced in stonework with a tall keep and during the 13th century, more buildings were added. In later times, Baptists would use the river to conduct their baptisms.
Some pavement walking brought them to a narrow lane and a climb uphill to Ogmore Down, adjacent to the Southerndown Golf Course, and crossing the open common with skylarks in full voice above them and in pleasant walking conditions, they made towards St Brides. On past the church of the 5th century Irish Saint Bridget, which contains the tomb of the Butler family and during the 16th century, its impressive preaching cross was destroyed by Cromwell’s army, but was rebuilt in 1851, in order to return to their start point.
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