Three decades is a long time in hospitality – long enough for trends to rise and fall, and for entire dining cultures to shift. In Caerleon, the Martinez family have ran the Priory restaurant since 1996, and as Antonia LeVay found, the legacy created there and in its sibling establishment Bodega is still clear today.
This year, husband and wife Benito and Sophie Martinez and their family celebrate 30 years at the helm of one of south Wales’ most distinctive hotel and restaurant destinations. Located in the picturesque town of Usk, The Priory’s story stretches back to 1180, when the building began as a Cistercian monastery. Over centuries, it has evolved through many identities: nunnery, private residence, and in 1996, the beginning of its modern chapter, when Benito took over the site.
We spent a night at the beautiful Priory Hotel as guests at their 30th birthday celebrations – a milestone moment for the Martinez family, and for that matter independent hospitality in Wales – and what immediately stands out is the sense of care that runs through everything.
Sophie Martinez has brought a refined and confident design vision to the space, elevating it into the realms of luxury boutique while respecting its historic soul. Rich teal tones, tactile natural materials and carefully curated finishes soften the building’s Gothic architecture, creating an atmosphere that feels both indulgent and grounded. It’s opulent, but never overwhelming.
Today, The Priory is one of four food business making up Benito and Sophie’s Fire & Wine group (the others are all in Cardiff – Lakeside wine bar Bodega, its neighbour the Park Side Kitchen, and Heath pizza takeaway Ballers). A major refurbishment completed in early 2025 marked a turning point: the introduction of fire-led cooking, a sharpened focus on provenance, and an ambitious wine programme signals a business that is evolving.
But what makes The Priory truly compelling is not just its aesthetic or its food, it’s the way it represents a broader shift within Welsh hospitality. As an independent, family-run operation, the Martinez family are showing that modern hospitality in Wales can be successful on a relatively small scale, in an industry often dominated by large groups and corporate chains. For would-be entrepreneurs across Wales, the Fire & Wine portfolio offers a blueprint which shows it’s possible to honour heritage while embracing change, and build something commercially successful without compromising on character.
At the heart of their story is a consistency of values: genuine hospitality, a commitment to quality produce. Those principles continue to guide its future, now shaped by Priory head chef Grady Atkins – whose culinary CV encompasses Michelin-starred kitchens, three different continents and three AA rosettes, and who brings both technical precision and creative confidence. There are also plans for an on-site kitchen garden, with a view to increasing seasonality and sustainability.
That same philosophy extends beyond Caerleon to Bodega Wine Bar, where the Martinez family’s passion for food and wine takes on a more intimate form. If The Priory is about heritage and scale, Bodega is about detail and experience. It’s here that we sampled the chef’s tasting menu, the first of 2026, and it was exceptional.
Crafted by Atkins, the menu unfolds as a carefully considered journey, each dish building on the last with confidence and clarity. Sophistication, albeit of a subtle nature, is a constant, and nothing feels overworked. The wine pairings are a highlight in themselves, thoughtfully selected to complement and elevate each course.
Benito’s presence throughout the evening transforms the experience from a meal into something far more engaging. His knowledge paired with the kitchen’s precision creates a rhythm to the evening that feels seamless. At £100 per head for food plus the wine pairings, the tasting menu represents remarkable value, considering the level of craftsmanship and care involved. It’s an experience designed to remove decision fatigue: an evening where everything is curated, paced and executed with confidence.
Chef’s Tasting Dinner, Bodega, Tue 7 Apr.
Price: £50 or £100 with wine. Booking: here
The Priory: 01633 421241 / thepriorycaerleon.co.uk
Bodega: 029 2294 4377 / bodegawine.bar
words ANTONIA LEVAY
