Waverley’s brief 2026 season from Penarth has been a stop–start affair, with Bristol Channel weather forcing several sailings to be cancelled or cut short.
When the sun finally appeared for one of her last Ilfracombe excursions on Sunday, hundreds of people packed Penarth Pier to make the most of it.
From the moment you step aboard the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer, it feels like a floating street party rather than just a ferry crossing.
Music, conversation and the thump of the paddles set the tone as Waverley eases away from the pier and swings down–channel towards North Devon, with the captain giving a running commentary on the coastline and landmarks along the way.
Food and drink are available throughout the ship, and on a Sunday that means a full roast being served below deck as well as more casual snacks and drinks from the bars.
The sailing to Ilfracombe takes around three hours, which is just long enough to settle into deck chairs, grab lunch and keep an eye out for wildlife without feeling restless.
The sea on this trip was kind, and even people prone to motion sickness commented on how steady the ship felt for an older vessel.
Arriving in Ilfracombe, you step straight into a classic seaside scene: blue water, steep green cliffs and plenty to fill the three hours ashore. Boat tours head out towards Lundy and the surrounding coast in search of dolphins, seals and puffins, while others take you close to remote coves, caves and dramatic headlands.
On land, there are pubs, independent cafés serving homemade cakes and ice creams, and enough walks and viewpoints that it is easy to lose track of time on a sunny afternoon.
A quick dip in the sea rounded off the stop in Ilfracombe before it was time to re–join Waverley for the return sailing.
Casting off around 5pm, the ship headed back towards Penarth with the sun dropping behind the Devon coast, giving passengers a slow, panoramic sunset over the Bristol Channel. It does turn chilly on deck once the sun goes, so warm layers are a must even after a hot day.
For Penarth residents, it is hard to think of a better budget‑friendly day trip: no airport queues, no long drive, just a few steps down the pier to board a historic ship and be delivered to another coast for the afternoon.
With Waverley now heading west to continue her season in Pembrokeshire and beyond, it is worth keeping an eye on next year’s timetable if you fancy the same mix of nostalgia, sea air and a mini‑holiday squeezed into a single day.
